Portugal's Table Wines Becoming Widely Available

There are many different journeys to the world of wine. Some people grow up with it, some become enamored with the lifestyle, and yet others make it a career.

Jill Ditmire, a Logansport native, is an Indianapolis wine shop owner who has an interesting career in wine and media. Some people would recognize the name or face from years working the Indianapolis television markets. She also has worked extensively in public television hosting and producing shows about wine and food for WFYI, Indianapolis.

But her varied career doesn’t end there. She is a nationally recognized judge for wine competitions. She also had participated and led wine tours to various parts of the world. It’s that experience I drew on recently for added knowledge about Portuguese wines.

Portugal has long been known for Port – a fortified wine or sweet dessert wine. But many winemakers in the coastal country are now using the same grapes to make interesting table wines at very affordable prices.

I knew Jill had traveled Europe extensively but had no idea she had visited Portugal. I wrote asking for some comment on Portuguese wines, which she carried in her Massachusetts Avenue shop, and learned she visited the country in 2007.

“I went to Portugal on a whim,” she replied. “I was asked last minute by a journalists group and, though I don’t know much about or truly appreciate Port. I decided to go. Wow - probably the last best thought I've had this century.”

Portugal’s wine country encompasses 13 growing regions from the northern areas of the country bordering Spain to the southern most areas. The Douro River valley is the country’s most prominent wine producing area in the north near Spain.

The wines featuring native red grapes are made mostly from Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, and Tinta Roriz. Douro’s Touriga Nacional is the primary grape used to make the sweet Ports.

Ditmire talked about visiting the vineyards and cork forests and how the younger winemakers are enriching the area’s history by using Port grapes to make great table wine.

“This handful of winemakers come from generations of wine, farming, and port making families,” she said. “But now, this generation is using money and knowledge to produce outstanding wine. “They blend bold, rich, lush red wines that are bursting with opulent red raspberry, black cherry, black pepper, and chewy tannins.”

Indeed, they are big flavored wines. They can be generally described as very ripe in flavor with spicy characteristics. They are also going to have a tannic finish.

The other outstanding region is the Vinho Verde where the Alvarinho – or albarino – grape is grown which I wrote about in my last column. The Vinho Verde wines can feature other grapes but are usually made from Albarino. The grape is a beautiful contrast to traditional Sauvignon Blancs and again, widely available.

You might have to look awhile to find Portuguese red wines but I have found some available in several Central Indiana wine shops. The flavor profile is different with an earthier and overly ripe feel on the palate. But if you want to try something new, try some Portuguese red wine.

You can find Jill on Facebook, Twitter, and she is currently re-building her homepage for Mass Ave Wine.

Howard’s Picks:

Quinta Do Alqueve 2006 Tradicional – This red is a classic blend featuring primarily Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. It’s a good introduction to the wines. This wine will have you thinking is it more like a Cab, Merlot, or maybe even a Pinot? ($11)

Grillo 2007 Vinho Tinto – This earthy wine is 75 percent Touriga Nacional with a huge nose and mouthful of flavor. It was very smooth drinking with moderate alcohol. ($13)

Turtle Run's 'Picasso' Making Interesting Wines

Situated along the Ohio River and Interstate 64 are seven new or relatively young Indiana wineries. The seven push the ever-growing number of Hoosier winemakers past the 40 mark this year.

I took a two-day vacation in late July to drive the Ohio River and make some winery stops. One easy conclusion is Indiana wines are improving. It was just a few years ago the Concord, Niagara, and Chambourcin based wines were too sweet or too bitter or just not balanced. It’s great to be able to report I tasted far fewer bad wines than anticipated.

I visited Winzerwald Winery, Bristol, Blue Heron Vineyards, Cannelton, Scout Mountain Winery and Turtle Run Winery, both near Corydon, Best Vineyards, south of Turtle Run, and Indian Creek Winery, just north of 64 in Georgetown. You can find them all with a simple internet search.

The boom of Indiana wineries, with more to come, is good news for most Hoosier vintners.

“Would you know of Napa Valley if there was only one winery,” Turtle Run’s Jim Pfeiffer asked. “If you go to a large city and you’re looking for a restaurant, have you ever noticed how restaurants align together? There is a synergy when you have them together, it builds a market. Right now it’s building and helping the market, not hurting it.”

Pfeiffer is a young breed of winemaker who laughs loud, shares his wine passion, and thinks of himself as a wine Picasso.

“Wine allows you to be creative,” he said with a really contagious enthusiasm. “Do you want to create the Merlots and Chardonnays of the world? No, that’s what everybody is doing. Or do you want to do the ‘one offs’ with some unique varieties that have some character? We do a lot of ‘one offs.’ We’re blendaholics.”

Indeed, during an afternoon visit he had several winery visitors watching him do a white wine blend. It was part Picasso and part mad scientist.

Turtle Run is like any Hoosier farm but instead of tobacco Pfeiffer grows grapes. He has a wine he calls “Red My Mind” which is part Merlot and Chambourcin that will remind you of a Pinot Noir. If you like white wine, try his dry Tortuga. It’s a blend of Chardonel and Vignoles that tastes more sophisticated and unlike anything you’ve had from other Hoosier wine makers. There’s his Summer Solstice white or Catherine’s Blend which are also a bit different.

Indiana winemaking legend Bill Oliver, Oliver Wrinery, mentored Pfeiffer through his early efforts in 2001. Pfeiffer is now up to about 4,000 cases of wine each year and hoping to hit 10,000 in the next few seasons. He and Ted Huber of Huber Winery are now often the mentors for the newcomers in their region.

“When you see an explosion of wineries the question becomes the due diligence side of knowing what the heck you’re doing in the winery,” Pfeiffer said. “We want to coach the wineries which need some additional assistance. But we get someone in every other week who wants to start a vineyard and winery. We give them a little bit of encouragement and discouragement.

“We see people walk in who just don’t think they are going to do the work and studies. They’re going to open a winery and be in way over their head. Great wine just doesn’t pour from containers.”

Albarino Will Rock Your White Wine World

Summer is the time for white wine and lighter flavors.

If you have spent your summer sipping Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and perhaps Riesling, then it’s time to try something different. Spanish and Portuguese Albarino is a varietal you aren’t going to find in any supermarket but should find at any good wine shop. Most Indiana shops will have one or two, many will have several.

Albarino has become a new personal favorite. It is a ripe-fruit flavored wine with a clean taste, very crisp and refreshing. It is a dry white wine with moderate to high alcohol levels. Some Albarino will have more acidity or citrus flavors than others, but I’ve yet to have a bad one.

Spain grows a significant amount of the world’s Albarino in the Rias Baixas region, the northwest coastal corner of the country just north of Portugal. It is also found across the border in the Vinho Verde region of Portugal. For many years the grape was used to create blends with other lesser known white grapes but has emerged more recently as a white wine that pairs nicely with seafood and is great served cold on a hot day.

The wine has a big beautiful nose for a white. If you pick up a bottle you’ll read that it will have hints of peach, apricot, or floral characteristics. There are a few Albarinos aged in oak but the vast majority is aged in stainless steel producing the clean and crisp characteristics.

The wine, like most grapes, is grown in other places around the world. But I’ve found if you start your experimentation with a new grape at its origin, you’re going to appreciate the variations of it even more when you drink one from Australia or California.

The climates in Spain and Portugal where Albarino is grown are cooler areas of those countries allowing these finicky, thick-skinned grapes to mature. Albarino put Spain’s white wines on the world map.

Try Albarino with seafood off the grill, particularly white fish and shrimp. Asian foods would be another perfect pairing. Or, chill the wine a bit more than normal and take it outside to enjoy on a warm evening.

Albarino is a very affordable experiment. You can find value bottles in the $9-$12 range in wine shops.

Howard’s Picks:
Salneval Albarino – 2007 Albarino from Spain has a seductive nose that makes it hard to put down. You’ll pick up some minerality and floral notes. This wine consistently scores well with national wine critics. ($9-$13)

Burgan Albarino – Also a 2007 selection, the Burgan Spanish Albarino is a bit more fruit forward than the Salneval. I thought it had a lemon flavor with perhaps an unusual hint of orange. It also had a bit of a creamy texture to it. Wine critics tend to really like this one. It’s going to be less acidic than the Salneval. ($12)

Mirassou Carrying on a Family Tradition

There are iconic names in the U.S. wine industry: Gallo, Mondavi, and Sebastiani. Those California family dynasties are joined by the oldest of the group – Mirassou family wines.

Pierre Pellier came to the United States in 1854 looking for gold, but fortunately brought along cuttings from vines in his native France. Pierre’s daughter married Pierre Mirassou and later created an iconic name and brand in California wines.
After decades of winemaking, the Mirassou brand was purchased in 2002 by wine giant Gallo. But David Mirassou, the sixth generation of the family, remains in the business today.

“I’m carrying on a great tradition,” he said during a recent visit to Indianapolis. “I’m the link to previous generations and the next generation.”
The Mirassou label is carried in Kroger supermarkets and represents an effort by Gallo to market premium wines. The average price point for a bottle of Mirassou is about $12.

David Mirassou is a Gallo employee with the title of National Sales Manager for the Mirassou brand, though he bristles at any suggestion that he’s just a spokesperson.
“I kind of do everything,” he said. “We do have winemakers, but I go back and taste the grapes and work with our team on blending. I’ve learned for me it’s better to get out and tell the story than dragging the hose (around the winery) all of the time. I help and give guidance to our full-time winemakers.

“I have direct input on every one of these wines, as much as I’d like to have. I sometimes have to set aside extra time because everybody wants me out doing different promotions.”

Mirassou talks of the Gallo purchase not as a buy-out of a smaller guy, which has happened often in California. He describes it as a partnership.
“I do everything that I used to do,” he said. “We don’t make the wines at our winery. It just wasn’t efficient to make wine there. Partnering with the Gallos made things easier.”

The Mirassou Winery was in the Silicon Valley. The vineyard property was more valuable for commercial development than vineyards. Gallo bought the name as developers bought up the property.

Mirassou likes to talk about the long relationship his family has had with the California icons, including Ernest Gallo.

“For 70-plus years we’ve been working together, my family was selling them grapes and helping them move the California wine industry forward,” he explained. “After my grandfather passed away, Ernest would tell me stories about my grandfather. Can you imagine having lunch with Ernest Gallo and he is telling stories about your grandfather!

“I’d drive home teary-eyed after hearing those great stories. It was always about how Ernest admired my grandfather. I sometimes wonder how I’m going to fill those shoes.”

He fills those shoes today with considerable time on the road promoting Mirassou Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet. He does tasting events and lots of media work.

But for David Mirassou it’s about family. “The most exciting time for me is when I take my son out to the vineyards,” he said smiling. “We go out and taste the grapes and we’ll talk about the vineyards. So I’ll ask, ‘Tristan, what did you think about tasting the grapes?’ And he’ll go, ‘Well the grapes were good but my favorite part was the reindeer with the big horns running up the hill.’”

He smiles and laughs. Even though young Tristan is not yet 10, David Mirassou knows the future of the family name lies in his young son’s hands.

Howard’s Picks:
Mirassou is best known for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. I thought the Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc were very nice value white wines. Having spent time tasting Oregon’s higher end Pinot this spring, I thought Mirassou’s Pinot was surprisingly good for the price point. The Mirassou wines are not heavily oaked. They are fruit forward with mild tannins. They are available at wine stores and supermarkets at very reasonable prices.

Everyone Asks for A List - How About 10 Great Wines?

People are always asking for a list of great wines, even a few editors. I’ve been reluctant because you’ll obviously find a few of these, but not others.

The wines listed were purchased in Central Indiana wine shops. I have decided to offer up a list of 10 great wines under $15. You really can’t go wrong with any of these.
These are some of the best wines I’ve enjoyed over the past 6-8 months.

Red Wine
Castano 2006 or ’07 Monastrell – I’ve called it the best bottle of wine I've ever had for under $10. I’ve seen this wine in many shops. It sells for an incredible $6.99 and had a 90-point rating from Wine Advocate. I would compare it favorably to Spanish Garnacha. It is fruity, yet dry, big-bodied wine with some spice.

Duck Pond 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon - It comes from Eastern Washington. It is a complex and intense wine which seldom happens for $11. It has a big nose and a spicy, woodsy flavor. Alternative: 337 Cabernet, $12-$15; Santa Emma 2006 Maipo Valley of Chile Cabernet, $12-$15.

Spellbound 2006 Petite Syrah - While not quite the fruit bomb Syrah can be, it was big on the front of the palate with smooth tannins. It's an easy-to-drink but big and full-bodied Syrah, $12.99 to $15.99. Alternative: Shoo Fly Aussie Salute, $9-$11 (Grenache/Syrah blend)

Caligiore Malbec – This is an intense wine, very fruity - even spicy perhaps. It's 14.5 percent alcohol so it's a pretty serious red. It is a rich, mouthful for those who've tried Malbec and want to sample a bigger one. I paid $16 for this one but have seen it as low as $12. Alternatives: Maipe Malbec, $10-$14; Tilia Malbec-Syrah, $8-$11; Dante Robino Bonarda, $11-$13.

Santa Cristina Sangiovese - The great Italian producer Antinori first produced this wine in the 1940s. It has hints of cherry and herb. It's medium bodied with a smooth finish. It is fabulous with Italian food. The wine experts tend to praise this consistent Italian gem. You’ll find it in the $9-$12 range.

White Wine
Nobilo 2008 Sauvignon Blanc – This crisp Sauv Blanc became the biggest seller of its varietal in the U.S. earlier this year. It has lemon, lime, and a grassy/citrus flavor and feel in the mouth. It’s a bargain at $9-$12. Alternative: New Zealand’s Fire Road, $13-$15.

Basa 2006 Blanco – Another great value you can find from $9-$12. The wine has a lime/citrus tartness but mild acidity. Many white wines can have overpowering acidity and this is really just right. The acidity on this Spanish beauty will be less than your typical Sauv Blanc.

La Broia 2003 Soave Superiore - The $10 wine has subtle flavor of apple and lemon, very dry and very balanced. I think it would hold up great to lighter flavored seafood and is dynamite by itself on the porch or poolside! Soave wine is easy to find, but go for the Superiore designation which has a little more structure and flavor. Alternative: Salneval Albarino, $9-$11.

Rose Wine
Mas Carlot 2008 Rose' – This French wine is 60 percent Grenache and 40 percent Syrah. It has a big beautiful nose. It has a bright and light fruity flavor with some mineral, and lots of sweet spicy goodness for $10. Sip this on the porch and all your troubles slip away!

Calderona 2007 Rose' - I picked up this Spanish Rose for $11. It definitely has a stronger flavor than many Rose’ wines but it's an interesting blend of Tempranillo, Grenache, and Verdejo.

If You Haven't, Do Try Dry Rose'

It is summer and time to think pink!

No, I’m definitely not talking about white zinfandel – that of the high sugar content and guaranteed headache. The hottest wine of the past few summers has been dry Rose’ made from a wide variety of grapes from every major wine producing region in the world.

A chilled dry Rose’ is a delightful summer beverage. They are refreshing and a super wine to serve at a summer gathering. Many Rose’ wines will hold up nicely with about any food. It’s like drinking a white wine with a bit bigger flavor.

The great thing about Rose’ is you can buy great bottles for under $15 – and sometimes a lot less. I opened a Cabernet Sauvignon Rose’ recently, which I’ll recommend below, that was just $6.99. You can buy the very best Rose’ wines and not spend more than $30.

The pink wine gets it color the same way red wine does. Winemakers leave the skins in contact with the juice to get just the color they want. Most Rose’ wines will have a hint of strawberry flavor. Most are soft and easy drinking wines.

For years no serious wine drinker would be caught dead sipping pink wines, but that has changed. Sales have jumped by double digits annually for several years. The Nielson Company reported U.S. Rose’ wine sales jumped 25 percent in 2008 alone.

Traditionally it has been France producing Rose’ and primarily from Provence. The Tavel region has long been known for its fine pink wines.

But now you’ll find Rose being made from every imaginable grape. Most of these wines have a light taste but you’ll find sophistication and enjoyable satisfaction in how easy they are to drink and share with friends. I’ve sampled Rose’ wine made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Sangiovese, Grenache, Malbec and others.

These wines are not hard to find in any wine store. They are not only very affordable but generally low in alcohol. I’m constantly surprised how well they pair with food or appetizers.

I’m going to devote a little more space in this column to specific wines that I have purchased in Central Indiana wine shops. This is a bit of an expanded Howard’s Picks. Also, I have several in the wine rack I’ll be drinking over the rest of the summer. You can read about those on my wine blog: www.redforme.blogspot.com

Calderona 2007 Rose – This Spanish Rose is 70 percent Tempranillo with Garnacha and Verdejo making up the mix. It’s a bigger and bolder Rose that that pairs well with food. I bought it for $12.

Pavie Macquin 2007 Rose – This French dry Rose’ has a juicy quality that any wine love can appreciate. It’s definitely on the lighter side but a beautiful wine. I paid $10.95 for this remarkable bottle.

Crus de Piedra Garnacha Rosada – The Spanish make some great Rose from the Garnacha (or Grenache) grape. This wine is easy to find. I’ve spotted it in several Indiana shops. This one has a big strawberry nose and is a medium-flavored wine. You can often find this one under $10.

Miguel Torres 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Rose – This is a Rose’ with big flavor that wine critics have loved. It’s a beautiful transparent cherry color with incredible balance. This Rose’ pairs really well with food. You’ll find it for up to $12 but I got a deal in Indianapolis for just $6.99.

Have A Sparkler for Fourth of July

Tired of the same old Merlot and Chardonnay? Tired of that light beer with a burger?

If you’re going to try something different this summer, then really try something new.

How about a sparkling wine? Sparkling wines aren’t just for New Year’s Eve or weddings. They can be a refreshingly different beverage that is more flexible than you might think. And summer is a great time to try something light, refreshing, with some effervescence.

Sparkling wines can be delightful with fresh fruit. A nice light sparkling wine will surprise you with white chocolate. Sparkling wine with cheese or most appetizers will also work. And after you develop a taste for a sparkler, I wouldn’t hesitate to serve it with some grilled shrimp as an appetizer. Don’t rule out sparkling wine with grilled seafood or lightly seasoned grilled chicken for dinner either.

The tough part of any sparkling wine/food combination is finding a really good wine. Who hasn’t had a taste of the bubbles at a wedding only to find yourself looking for a place to set that glass down and go back to whatever else you were drinking?

I usually don’t spend an entire column on a specific wine but I’m going to write today about two that are widely available and very drinkable.

It starts with Cristalino Rose Brut from Spain. You can find this pinkish sparkler in many wine shops across Indiana. It’s 60 percent Pinot Noir, with just 11.5 percent alcohol, and usually is sold in the $9-$11 range.

The second is California sparkling wine icon Gloria Ferrer’s Sonoma Brut. This traditionally colored sparkling wine is a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with just the right amount of bubbles. You can find it from $16-$20 everywhere.

I opened both bottles with a friend of mine and her daughter and wanted to share our impressions. The ladies thought the Rose Brut was too mild in its effervescence. They didn’t think “it had enough bubbles.” They agreed with me that it had a light taste and grew on them as they sipped more from our champagne flutes.

Both suggested this sparkling wine had enough body to hold up to appetizers and light food.

They just loved the Gloria Ferrer Brut. “It’s crisp without being too sharp,” one said. “It’s quite effervescent. It has a soft flavor profile … it doesn’t taste cheap.”

The ladies thought it would be nice with a fruit tray or a mild cheese. They thought it was a visually appealing and tasting glass of wine.

The three of us tasted the sparkling wines while nibbling on fresh strawberries in early June. We felt very continental!

We finished off the Gloria Ferrer but not all of the Cristalino. What else do you need to know? Wine Spectator consistently rates this wine in the upper 80s to 90 points!

Ferrer makes sparkling wines at higher price points. This entry level would be a huge improvement for most I’ve tasted at weddings.

There are other great options in most wine shops as well. Ask your wine shop helper for Spanish Cava or an Italian Prosecco.

Howard Pick:
Gloria Ferrer’s Sonoma Brut. This was by far our pick of the two, though I liked the Rose’ as well. The ladies appreciated the lighter and balanced flavor of the Sonoma wine. You will be surprised how much you’ll enjoy the bubbles with a creamy mid-palate and lighter-than-expected finish.