Col. 6 - All About Bubbly on New Year's Eve

It’s hard to understand why people rush out before the end of the year to buy an expensive drink they’ve never had before, and if they have had it - they probably didn’t enjoy it!

Yes, I’m writing today about champagne.

Champagne, from my very limited experience, can be exhilarating or just plain awful. This column is being written on research more than experience. I try to stick to things I know when writing about wines. But it’s the time of year people are looking for some direction and advice.

Let’s start with a little education. The only real ‘Champagne’ comes from the Champagne region of France. You see the word ‘Champagne’ on other bottles but if it’s not French, then it’s not Champagne. The explanation for all of that involves lots of history and understanding of Old World (Europe) wines. But let’s not go there today.

There are a handful of major Champagne houses in France but probably the best known is Dom Perignon. Moet et Chandon produces the famous green-bottled wine with the shield-shaped label. The champagne is named after a Benedictine Monk, born about 1638, who purportedly discovered the method for making champagne, some say he worked on blending methods, but the Dom Perignon name stuck.

It’s always good to know what you’re getting in a bottle. The classic Dom Perignon is 55% Chardonnay, and 45% Pinot Noir. And as you probably know it’s expensive. I believe the current release is a 2000 vintage which sells for around $130 a bottle.
I’ve never had it but have certainly heard its praise from others. Dom Perignon is portrayed in at least one ad campaign having said it was like “drinking stars.”
And if you want to take a step up from Dom Perignon, try Cristal produced by Louis Roederer. It is known for its flat-bottomed clear, “crystal bottle, cellophane wrapper, and gold label. It’s also known for its $350 price tag.

So there must be an alternative. And, there are lots of alternatives. I read numerous wine columns and blogs and found some recommendations that make sense.
Italy and Spain have some marvelous white wines that are becoming increasingly popular. They are very affordable, consistent with the ‘under $25’ approach.

Italy’s Prosecco is a frothy, bubbly and fun wine made in the region around Venice. You will find mass market Prosecco wines and smaller producers. If you’re into it, look for Prosecco from the Valdobbiadene region. You’ll find some great buys in the $15-$20 range.

Prosecco is generally lighter than champagne, less alcohol content, but you still get the bubbles!

Another great pick is a Spanish Cava. Cava hails from the region around Barcelona. Cava sparkling wines have become very popular and can be found in the $10-$20 range.
What about good U.S. bubbly? Perhaps the best known name is Korbel. That company found loopholes in international treaties that allow it to use the word “Champagne” on their bottles. They offer several price points.

Washington state’s leading winery Ste. Michelle makes a Brut for $8.99. Gloria Ferrer, from California’s Sonoma Valley, is one of the U.S.’s leading producers. The winery’s top-of-the line product is Royal Cuvee which sells for $35 and was awarded 93 points by Wine Spectator. They have less expensive bottles as well.

If you want something nice and are near a wine shop, go ask for their recommendation. It’s important to support these smaller shops during these tough economic times. Any wine shop will have a selection that should fit your budget.

And Martini and Rossi’s ‘Asti Spumante’ - about nine bucks - remains a nice mouthful of bubbles for New Year’s Eve.

A couple of notes: “Grape Sense” has expanded to Crawfordsville, Frankfort, Terre Haute, Seymour, and Wabash, Indiana, newspapers. I have not spent much time working to spread the column but I continue to get great e-mail response.

Have a great and very Happy 2009!

PS: A special toast to those who recognize Christopher Walken in the photo center left. This is from his Saturday Night Live skit where he constantly refers to the pleasures of a fine "champanya."

Ring out the old, ring in the new, Ring, happy bells, across the snow: The year is going, let him go; Ring out the false, ring in the true. - Lord Alfred Tennyson

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