Thursday, August 20, 2009

Mirassou Carrying on a Family Tradition

There are iconic names in the U.S. wine industry: Gallo, Mondavi, and Sebastiani. Those California family dynasties are joined by the oldest of the group – Mirassou family wines.

Pierre Pellier came to the United States in 1854 looking for gold, but fortunately brought along cuttings from vines in his native France. Pierre’s daughter married Pierre Mirassou and later created an iconic name and brand in California wines.
After decades of winemaking, the Mirassou brand was purchased in 2002 by wine giant Gallo. But David Mirassou, the sixth generation of the family, remains in the business today.

“I’m carrying on a great tradition,” he said during a recent visit to Indianapolis. “I’m the link to previous generations and the next generation.”
The Mirassou label is carried in Kroger supermarkets and represents an effort by Gallo to market premium wines. The average price point for a bottle of Mirassou is about $12.

David Mirassou is a Gallo employee with the title of National Sales Manager for the Mirassou brand, though he bristles at any suggestion that he’s just a spokesperson.
“I kind of do everything,” he said. “We do have winemakers, but I go back and taste the grapes and work with our team on blending. I’ve learned for me it’s better to get out and tell the story than dragging the hose (around the winery) all of the time. I help and give guidance to our full-time winemakers.

“I have direct input on every one of these wines, as much as I’d like to have. I sometimes have to set aside extra time because everybody wants me out doing different promotions.”

Mirassou talks of the Gallo purchase not as a buy-out of a smaller guy, which has happened often in California. He describes it as a partnership.
“I do everything that I used to do,” he said. “We don’t make the wines at our winery. It just wasn’t efficient to make wine there. Partnering with the Gallos made things easier.”

The Mirassou Winery was in the Silicon Valley. The vineyard property was more valuable for commercial development than vineyards. Gallo bought the name as developers bought up the property.

Mirassou likes to talk about the long relationship his family has had with the California icons, including Ernest Gallo.

“For 70-plus years we’ve been working together, my family was selling them grapes and helping them move the California wine industry forward,” he explained. “After my grandfather passed away, Ernest would tell me stories about my grandfather. Can you imagine having lunch with Ernest Gallo and he is telling stories about your grandfather!

“I’d drive home teary-eyed after hearing those great stories. It was always about how Ernest admired my grandfather. I sometimes wonder how I’m going to fill those shoes.”

He fills those shoes today with considerable time on the road promoting Mirassou Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet. He does tasting events and lots of media work.

But for David Mirassou it’s about family. “The most exciting time for me is when I take my son out to the vineyards,” he said smiling. “We go out and taste the grapes and we’ll talk about the vineyards. So I’ll ask, ‘Tristan, what did you think about tasting the grapes?’ And he’ll go, ‘Well the grapes were good but my favorite part was the reindeer with the big horns running up the hill.’”

He smiles and laughs. Even though young Tristan is not yet 10, David Mirassou knows the future of the family name lies in his young son’s hands.

Howard’s Picks:
Mirassou is best known for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. I thought the Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc were very nice value white wines. Having spent time tasting Oregon’s higher end Pinot this spring, I thought Mirassou’s Pinot was surprisingly good for the price point. The Mirassou wines are not heavily oaked. They are fruit forward with mild tannins. They are available at wine stores and supermarkets at very reasonable prices.

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